This article was created for use with adding a rod holder to a Big Game Kayak but could in fact be used with any Kayak that has enough free space. The recommended space required is 4.4" x 3.5" and 8" deep. It's very important to check the Kayak depth prior to even ordering your flushmount to see if it'll fit inside the hull as scupper hole fittings can sometimes be an issue.

Disclaimer:

I created this article to assist others in fitting a flushmount rod holder and it is intended as a guide only. I cannot be held responsible for individuals actions so please be very careful and plan your rigging exploits.

If you find a better way to fit the rod holder or can add your own input, please feel free to e-mail me with the info via the site and I'll add the content if it's better than what's in the existing page.

Tools Required

• Drill
• 2,1/8" Hole Saw Drill Bit
• 5/16" drill bit
• 11/64 drill bit or similar size (for drilling pilot holes)
• Sealant (optional)
• Philips Screwdriver (or drill bit fitting)
• Small Adjustable Spanner or 3/8" socket/spanner
• A Dremel type tool is an advantage

You now need to make the circle you cut into an eliptical shape to suit the rod holders head piece as it lies on an angle. You'll see what I mean if you try to fit the rod holder through the circular hole you drilled.

In the image to the right I marked my line around 1/4" out but this was actually too much so be careful when cutting as you don't want too much of a gap around the rod holder base. This where the sealant comes in handy.

I'm lucky to have got a Dremel multi-tool for my last birthday and it came in very handy for this job as you can see by the picture to the left. However, even it's tiny cutting tool proved to be too heavy handed and I chose to use a sanding tool pictured below to get the right shape and finish it off.

Do make sure the extra piece you cut out is to the rear of which ever way the rod holder is to face.

The next step is to fit the rod holder in place to see if it's ok? Keep eating away at the hole until the holder fits in as snugly as possible to lessen the chance of water seapage.

Remember that there's a sticky pad on the underside of the rod holder base so don't remove it yet and also remember to brush away or vacuum the cuttings and shavings prior to doing so as they'll create lumps and therefore gaps beneath the base when fitted.

Next we need to drill the pilot holes for the screw- bolts. Notice how I used pilot holes rather than drilling the actual size of the screws? This is in case I accidently drill a hole too large for the screw/bolt. It's better to have a hole thats too small than too large as I'm sure we all know?

I used a size 11/64" metal bit but as long as the bit is smaller than the screw diameter you'll be fine. Hold the rod holder firmly in place without removing the sticky pad backing or peel it off and place the rod holder in place if your sure you've chosen correctly.

This is where personal preference comes into play, hence the disclaimer at the top of the page. I chose to leave the backing on as I knew I'd be removing the holder again and I knew I'd be using sealant anyway.

I drilled through the sticky gasket and just kept a good firm hold on the rod holder head while drilling in case it moved.

I wasn't sure how the screw bolts fitted as it wasn't mentioned in the instructions so I decided to remove one of the existing rear flushmounts to see how it went?

The rubber bases fit through a hole drilled using a 5/16" metal drill bit. I still had to use the bit to widen each hole slightly to get the rubber base through to fit snugly. The head of the rubber base then sits on top of the hole as pictured to the left with a metal female ferrule that the bolt screws into then pulls up beneath creating a good seal.

You then need to peel off the backing if you haven't already and fit the rod holder into position. Once it's in place give it a twist to bed it in if your using sealant to ensure a good airtight seal. Push the three bolts through the holes and using a large philips type screw driver gently tighten them down.

Try placing your free hand beneath the holder if you can to feel the base nipping up to the bolt so you don't overtighten it.

Here's a look at the bolts in place and nipped up, from below deck inside the hull. You can also see how well the sealant has worked to create a good watertight seal.

This next step shows why I mentioned the all important planning of the job prior to going ahead. Fitting the rod holders at the front of a Prowler Big Game is tricky due to the battery shelf being in the way. I chose to cut through the shelf to allow the holders to travel through it. They don't need to be sealed or anything as the shelf wasn't anyway. I just kept the hole as tight as possible to keep the job a neat one.

The picture to the right shows the first hole cut into the removed tray which was quite simple and is where the spanner comes into play.

The finished article, two front flushmount rod holders in place. If you look very closely you'll notice that the left holder (on the right in the picture) sits facing slightly further out than the right one.

This is down to me being left handed and I'll use this holder the most. I'll be leaving a rod in this holder with a trolling lure on and use the other for storing a rod if needed.

Page Created by Andy, courtesy of Kayak Fishing UK.

Kayak, and fittings kindly supplied by the UK distributor of OK Kayaks